Metal Herb Grinders NZ
Greenhut · New Zealand
Metal is the default material for a grinder because of what the teeth are made of. On a metal grinder the teeth are machined into a solid body; on a plastic one they are moulded. Machined teeth cut rather than tear, and they keep their edge through repeated use — which is most of the difference people notice between a cheap moulded grinder and a machined one.
This collection covers every metal-bodied grinder Greenhut stocks in New Zealand: anodised aluminium, zinc alloy and stainless steel, in 2, 3, 4 and 5 chamber builds, from pocket-sized bodies up to 75mm large-capacity units.
The three metals
- Anodised aluminium — light for its size. Anodising hardens the surface so it resists the smudging and scuffing bare metal picks up. Aluminium is what the machined brand-name bodies are cut from, including Sharpstone and the RAW x Hammercraft grinders.
- Zinc alloy — denser and heavier than aluminium at the same diameter, and usually cheaper. Most of the coloured, patterned and novelty-shaped bodies in this range are zinc alloy. A zinc alloy grinder feels more substantial in the hand; it is also the one more likely to chip its paint if dropped on tile.
- Stainless steel — the heaviest and the hardest to mark. Rare in grinders because of the weight and cost. The RAW Original Stainless Steel Heavy is the stainless model in this range.
How many chambers?
Metal grinders here come in every common build. A 3 piece grinds and collects in separate chambers; a 4 piece adds a mesh screen and a kief catcher below it. A 2 piece is just lid and teeth — smallest, cheapest, nothing to block. The main grinder page has a side-by-side comparison of all four.
Sizing
Diameter is measured across the body. 40–45mm is pocket sized, 50–55mm is the most common size and what most brand-name grinders are built at, and 60mm and above is large capacity — more per turn, but not a pocket object.
Looking after a metal grinder
Take it apart, tap out anything loose, then brush the teeth and threads dry with a stiff brush. Isopropyl alcohol dissolves the sticky residue that builds up on metal; rinse and dry fully before reassembling. Anodised and painted finishes should not be left soaking. Keeping the threads clean matters more than keeping the teeth shiny — a gritty thread is what makes a grinder feel worn out.
Prefer to spend less? See plastic herb grinders. Want the full comparison first? Read Herb Grinders 101 — the complete NZ buying guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a zinc alloy and an aluminium grinder? Zinc alloy is heavier and cast, which gives a solid feel and lets the maker mould detailed shapes. Aluminium is lighter and usually machined, so it suits pocket carry. Both run through this range.
What size metal grinder should I choose? Diameter is the number that matters, and this range includes 55mm and 60mm bodies as well as mini pocket sizes. A wider grinder holds more per turn and is easier to grip with cold hands.
How do I clean a metal herb grinder? Tap it out, then work a stiff dry brush over the teeth, the screen and the threads, and finish the screen with a cotton bud. Dry every part fully so the alloy threads do not bind when you reassemble.
What is an electric grinder? An electric model such as the Backwoods portable grinder uses a small motor rather than hand twisting. The rest of this range is manual, with teeth cut into the lid and base that mesh as you turn.